It was a grey Sunday morning in February. I was tired, it was cold, and I had no real idea what I was walking into.
I’d been hearing more and more about wild saunas in Scotland — the heat, the cold water, the way people talked about how it made them feel. I was curious, but I wasn’t sure I actually wanted to try it. When I finally booked my first session at Largo Castaway Sauna Lower Largo, signing up with a wild swimming group so I’d be doing a sea dip too, I felt equally nervous and curious in equal measure.

It was just getting light as I arrived.
A friendly welcome, which felt like a good start.

Arriving at Largo Castaway Sauna
I arrived at Largo Castaway Sauna in Lower Largo and parked at the free public car park on Main Street before walking down towards the beach.
Google Maps says it’s about a 9-minute walk, but it didn’t feel that far at all.
The route takes you along the coastline beside the beach and through rows of quaint seaside houses, giving the whole place that classic Scottish fishing village feel.
Details like this all the way down.

What the sauna setup was like
The sauna itself is a wood-fired beach sauna perched on a raised bank just steps from the shoreline.
The setting was beautiful, and even the sky began to brighten. A sliver of sunshine broke through, which felt like a small miracle in February.
The setup was simple but really well thought out. There were deck chairs to sit on and relax between dips, a private hut to get changed, and a sheltered area at the back to leave your things.
Inside, the sauna looked out over the sea, and just outside there was a cold bath ready for dipping. And the owner’s friendly wee dog was never too far away.
It felt like a really lovely place to start — right by the sea, an easy walk down, a great group of women, and a warm welcome from the owners and their dog.

Inside the sauna
One of the owners added citrus essential oils to the water before pouring it over the stones and offered a ‘fanning session’, wafting the steam around us and helping cool things between rounds.
Afterwards, we were offered orange slices. Small, unexpected touches, but they made the whole experience feel special — and kind of indulgent in a wild way.
The wood-fired sauna warmed me to the bone, which gave me the confidence to brave the cold water.
My First Sea Dip
When I stepped into the water, I surprised myself. I didn’t scream or run straight back out like I thought I might. I waded in, knees and legs stinging from the cold, but the neoprene socks I had on helped.
The waves were lively that day, rolling in and breaking around us, which made the dip feel even more exhilarating.
Other women were doing yoga poses whilst braving the cold. I remembered a power pose trick I’d learned years ago in a TED talk and gave it a go — hands on hips, standing firm in the freezing sea. It seemed to help.
Then I dipped fully under. It took my breath away, but someone told me to just breathe.
And I did.
The calm that followed was incredible. Just heat, cold water, and the sea. No distractions, no rushing — just being completely present in it.

How I felt afterwards
It wasn’t just physical – it felt quite emotional too. There was a real sense of achievement, and something about being out in the sea and the elements made me feel more connected to it all.
After the session, we walked along to The Aurrie, a lovely café in a converted church in Lower Largo. It was really cosy inside, with a log-burner, fairy lights, and a few dogs happily snoozing beside their owners.
Sitting there with a hot drink and chatting to the women felt like the perfect way to finish off the experience.
I felt amazing after leaving Largo Castaway Sauna, and I kept thinking how simple it all was – the heat and the cold – but how good it made you feel.
Why it meant more than I expected
Just a few months ago, I did a charity trek across the Sahara Desert. It was vast, silent, and completely wild. Days were spent walking without clocks or concrete, just moving through the landscape.
Sitting in the heat of the sauna and then stepping into the cold sea, something familiar stirred. The same sense of simplicity. Of being fully present. Of reconnecting with the world around me.
It surprised me how much I needed that — and how much I want to feel it again.
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